Last week, the Michelin Guide announced its list of delicious, affordable Michelin Bib Gourmand winners. On that list is Faro (436 Jefferson St., 718-381-8201), a great dining spot in Bushwick that opened in May by husband-and-wife team of Kevin and Debbie Adey. While it’s a little bit off the beaten path if you’re a Manhattanite, it’s well worth the trip on the L.
Hop off at Jefferson and into Faro’s rustic warehouse space. Before it became a restaurant, this spot was used as storage space for MoMA, which makes sense with its sky-high walls and sprawling interior.
On your right is a wooden bar under the care of Justin Lane Briggs (of Gin Palace). Grab a drink or head straight to your table (another benefit of Brooklyn: very little, if any, wait at all).
If you like watching the bustle of the kitchen, try to get a seat near the back. The whole space is open, so you can see the cooks skillfully whisk items in and out of the wood-fired oven and meats sizzling as they hit hot pans.
As for the menu, chef Kevin Adey specializes not just in wood-fired options but also freshly made pastas, from squid ink strozzapreti with skate wing ($18) to Roman gnocchi with Swiss chard ($17). I loved the bucatini ($18) served with shredded chicken confit in a chili-laced sauce that was just barely there.
It’s safe to assume, though, that whatever you order, you’ll enjoy at Faro. Each item is made lovingly with organic, local ingredients. While these are terms you’d expect these days from any new, trendy restaurant, Faro delivers it all in a casual neighborhood spot where you can feel right at home.
Ariel Kanter is an editor at Gilt City.
